Colombia - Manizales/Medellin

Reliving the adventures that I had in Colombia is certainly tough, despite the last two weeks of telling almost everyone about how amazing of a trip I had there, but, I want to share the summary/highlights with you all, as it truly was a mindblowing vacation.

For starters, the trip came about because I had found out about a breakfast panel meeting taking place in Medellin with a handful of big-wig type economists, bank heads, etc discussing the future economic and political challenges South America (all representatives were from various countries in South America). So, having found this meeting, I began to plan a trip through Colombia, figuring, "if I'm going to go to Colombia, I might as well see the country." And, the more I researched, the more people I spoke with about the country, the more interested i became in getting up there, so after a few weeks of monitoring flights to Bogotá, I finally found one for under under US $500, and had to book. Mind you, this was 5 days before the departure, and I really didn't have a 'plan' for the other 13 days of the vacation, but, in trying to turn over a new leaf, I pissed in to the wind and bounced to Colombia, with a backpack, a Lonely Planet guide (which I bought the day before I left), a few contacts, and my iPhone...

The start of my trip couldn't have gotten off worse... Despite the not sleeping the nite before because my flight was so early departing BA, I made it to the airport, got thru security, and boarded - all was fine... Until, we were trying to make our landing in Lima (I had to fly thru Lima to get the super cheap rate to Bogotá)... All of a sudden, the plan makes a weird jerky movement, like the 'ride' at an amusement park when the floor drops out and you free fall for a few seconds, though it feels like forever... Then, the plane made an abrupt ascent, as if we were 'pulling' out of a nuclear bomb detonation... Something didn't feel exactly right, and about 2 seconds later, we received an announcement about poor weather conditions (neblina - fog) In Lima, which were forcing us to reroute to some place to land and wait it out. So, 5 hours later, we go the go ahead from Lima, that it was finally ok to return for a landing... Needless to say, I missed my connection and was rebooked on a flight leaving about 7 hours later, totally screwing up my plans for the first day and overnight bus ride I was trying to take to get to my first destination - Manizales.

Upon arrival in Bogotá, it was about 1.30a, I snuggled up to the most comfortable bench, sent a few emails to family/friends telling them of my travails, and tried to get some rest, as the flight I was more or less forced to book from Bogotá to Manizales (in Lima) was departing at 5.50a. Instead of losing a full day of travel via bus from Bogotá to Manizales, I opted to eat the US $140 and just get there...

The arrival to Manizales was out of a movie - the sun poking through the clouds, the city built in-to and on top of a mountain, the green forests draping the Andes Mountains, and the single, black runway at the airport... Magnificent! I had had plenty of time to research the area, and was hoping to make it early enough to catch a hiking tour to the Parque Nacional de Los Nevados, where 3 volcanoes are located, all of which have wreaked havoc on the surrounding communities over the years. Unfortunately, the adventure company's office was not open at 7a, and by the time they opened at 8a, the tour had already gone for the day, so I opted for the next best thing that day - a tour of the Zona Cafetera (coffee growing region - think Juan Valdez). This tour was unlike anything I had previously experienced. El paisaje (the landscape) of Colombia is totalmente increíble! Driving from Manizales out to the fincas (coffee plantations), the elevation decreased a bit, the temperate rose, the sun was blaring, and the sky was blue - I really couldn't have asked for much more, except for maybe a shower, but I knew I could get one of those later. Throughout the tour, which was given to me privately by the owner of the company (all in Spanish I might add), I kept finding myself being amazed with the topography of what I was seeing - dicing through the mountains, seeing plush forests, fincas, estancias (ranches), etc, and buzzing around every turn with a bit of fear, as the road barriers 'protecting' cars from a certain demise should they careen off the side were far from 'protective,' acting more like guideposts...

Finally, we came to the finca for a tour and a tasting... For those who know me, I'm NOT a coffee drinker... Er, correction, I was formerly a non-coffee drinker, until now... I love the stuff! Maybe it would be like losing your virginity to a Victoria's Secret model, but I really have a thing for coffee now. Not dissimilar to wine tasting, there are certain aromas, methods of service/presentation, mouth feel, and flavors to look for to determine the quality of the cup. And, like wine, really good cafeteros (I think) can tell from which areas a particular bean was grown/harvested, just like those super snooty sommeliers.

Well, day 1 was all but over, after having dinner, alone, at a parrilla in the Zona Rosa (caveat: all towns in Colombia have a Zona Rosa), which was surprisingly slow, granted it was a Monday, when I returned to my hotel to learn that my sister was finally free from her now last job, and first one she had out of school. It was melancholy, but something she had wanted for a while, albeit under different circumstances (she's since founda new, better job and has the time to come visit me!).

So, having signed up for the hiking tour up the volcanos earlier in the day, I made the decision to skip the meeting in Medellin and enjoy the Colombian countryside, and that I did. I woke up the next morning with plenty of time to spare in order to pack, organize my things and meet the van downstairs for my 7a pickup... Well, when 745a rolled around, I began to get a little nervous, as I had no way of contacting the office because they weren't opening until 8a, which I learned on my first day... Luckily, the guide called the hotel and told the front desk they were on their way, as a few of the other people they picked up stayed a bit further away - phew!

The trip from Manizales to Parque Nacional de Los Nevados was breathtaking... It lasted a few hours until we got to 'base camp' at about 4,600 meters (just a hair over 15,000 feet), and the views were amazing... Observing the climatic changes as our elevation increased, the life-forms and vegetation that changed as the amount of oxygen in the air decreases was pretty cool to experience. Driving through 'the pass' in Colorado always takes my breath away, but this seemed, and felt different. By the time we got to base camp, the temperate had dropped considerably (something I wasn't entirely prepared for when I packed clothes for two weeks, whoops!), and I had to put on the pair of gloves (guantes) that I purchased at some random stop we made, and zip up. I was decked out in a hoodie, a spring-weight ski jacket, wool gloves, a pair of soccer warm up pants, and sneakers - hardly the attire of a trekker north of 15,000 feet... So, from base camp, we began the hike, which lasted a few hours, experiencing even more climate changes - at one point, the terrain felt like the moon (footprints in the mud-like soil that was soft enough to wipe out easily, yet firm enough to support someone walking cautiously), with barren landscapes and a chill in the air that seemed surreal. Finally, we got to about 4,900 meters, where a large Colombian flag was raised. Naturally, the group was not comprised of a bunch of mountaineers (just our guide), so we took a much needed break, to take photos, of course! After about 15 minutes, we continued onward, hiking to 5,000 meters, where snow-peaked mountains starting poking through the cloud-line - there wasn't any noticeable living vegetation, nor mammalian life at this point either. At this altitude, the soil was slick, and the snow was soft, so we did what anyone else would do - we made giant snow balls and launched them tumbling down the mountainside! A few more pictures at the near-top of the mountain (a sign at 4,900 meters suggests that only experienced trekkers should continue past 5,000 meters, or risk serious health problems - one of those signs you read before sky-diving/bungee jumping/paragliding, only the middle of which I have yet to do), and the reverse trek began… This is where the altitude clearly began to affect our midnsets, as I opted to make a little game of it – skiing in sneakers and tobogoning on my ass... And yes, I have videos of both, what a great day!

On to Medellin, where the Sheraton was awaiting my arrival with a clean bed, a hot shower, and some room service – I figured this was all well deserved after my first 3 days in Colombia…

For those who have not had the opportunity, Medellin is an absolute must if you’re passing through South America… The city really does have it all – an absolutely breathtaking vista from everywhere; it has been developed/built in a valley like most cities in Colombia, and is completely surrounded by mountains. The two days I spent here were 'a pie' (on foot), visiting, seeing, photographing, and sampling as much as I could. Despite having missed the meeting that had been the catalyst for the entire planning of the trip to Colombia, the conference that had been taking place for the 50th Anniversary of the Inter-American Bank of Development (the investment/development arm of the World Bank, aimed at assisting credit-worthy poorer countries with a long history in South America) was still in full swing, so the city was absolutely immaculate - something as big as this conference likely ahd been in the works for years, so the city had plenty of time to prepare to host the leaders of the free-world's investment decisions and representatives from international banks galore, etcetera, etcetera... I was lucky to have been there during this time, as everyone I dealt with, from street vendors, cab drivers, bankers, and fellow tourists, were all incredible gracious and 'super'-nice (a widely-used adverb in Colombia). Being from a city, I wanted to just hit the pavement, having done 'rural' adventures the previous two days in/around Manizales, so I took to the streets, learned the light-rail system (it was amazingly efficient, extremely clean, and quite direct) and hit the town.

On my first day, i wanted to get a sense of what El Centro had to offer, namely, museums, churches, governmental buildings, parks, and the general business sector of the city. With my day-pack in tow, I pulled out my city-guide (one of the nice things about the Sheraton was that it was a 'host' hotel for the conference, so a little tour-guide kiosk was set up and offering free pamphlets of the tours they offered - thank you very much for the advice) and Lonely Planet and mapped out my first day. I hit El Centro in full stride, having grabbed a bite to eat at a little breakfast place on Parque Lleras (in the trendy, upscale neighborhood of Poblado south of downtown), and finished with a coffee - even now, it still seems a little strange that I have been converted to a coffee drinker. The train ride from the south to downtown was pretty cool, as the day was nice and the weather was perfect to be 'a pie' and as we cruised, I could feel the vibrance of the town bouncing around the mountains... I ended up popping in and out of what felt like 30 churches, just in El Centro, and shuffled between Plaza Bolivar/El Catedral, and the Plaza de Esculturas (de Botero) quite easily, snapping away like a paparazzi on a mission. Now, I had ready about Not about Botero, the chosen son of Santa Fe de Antioquia (the region, or, "departamento" of Colombia where Medellin resides), but didn't really realize that both the Plaza de Esculturas and the Museo de Antioquia (along with well-placed Botero-inspired billboards) were dedicated almost entirely to him until I turned the corner around the Palacio de Cultura (which was formerly a governmental palace and is beautifully designed) and was smack dab at a bronze convention of oversized, blobby-glob sculptures of rounded people and animals - it felt kind of weird, but very cool at the same time. So, I ended up passing the majority of the day roaming a few of the streets, peotonals, museums, and buildings, trying to indulge myself in a bit of 'Paisa' (the term for a person from Medellin) culture - pretty cool stuff. The day ended with drinks in Parque Lleras, despite the rain...

With only the rest of the second day in Medellin to spare, ha, I had a fairly aggressive plan to head to the northern part of the city to check out the 'other' sights (there are a ton, and I knew there was no way I would even come close to checking off all the boxes, but, when in Rome?!) - Parque Explora/Acuario, Jardín Botánico, Parque de Deseos, Parque Norte (get the idea - this was my 'parque' day)... Unfortunately, the weather was not on my side for spending a day outside, as it was overcast, a bit rainy, and a little chilly, but, I carried on... I hit the Jardín Botanico a little before noon, after making my way from the hotel after a light, on the fly breakfast courtesy of some street vendors, and didn't really know what to expect - I had read good things, but when it comes to gardens, flowers, and plants, it can be hit or miss with the delivery... Well, I couldn't have been more amazed - not only was admission free, but the cleanliness, tranquility, and organization of the entire 'park' was awe-inspiring. From the palm forest, to the 'casa de mariposas,' to the research laboratory (a super-modern glass and metal building with tons of natural light; probably something to help the plant experiment I found while wandering around unescorted), to the cactus region, along the winding path to the event space and restaurant, and finally, the big daddy - the orquideorama (an homage to the nationally cultivated, and highly exported orchid trade). This place was amazing!! Seeing this monster structure from afar made me feel like I was in Return of the Jedi approaching the Ewok village - a large canopy protecting what appeared to be a mystical enclosure... As I got closer, I was in awe of the size of this section of the park (which, was newly renovated, having taken about 3 years between 2005-2007). The flowers that it contained were incredible - the variety of colors, textures, and species was breathtaking. I spent a good hour, alone, in the orquideorama, snapping photos of all the plants, flowers, people, and artists who all seemed to be as taken back by the surroundings. The yoga class I came upon certainly seemed fitting, as did the art class, and handful of small-ish tours that were waltzing through. I finally ended my amazement by taking a step in to the restaurant, which overlooked another area of the park for what ended up being a very delicious, and very peaceful lunch. Now, the afternoon was getting away from me, and I had to get out and see the other parks in he neighborhood, before heading to the bus station for the overnight ride to Cartagena. So, I walked across the street and headed to Parque Explora, a kind of Museum of Science and Industry (Chicago) mixed with the Shedd Acquarium (Chicago) and Lincoln Park Zoo Reptile Exhibit (Chicago, are you surprised?). This building was clearly very new as well (based on a handful of periodicals I picked up after visiting, it seems to have opened in 2008), with a super-modern facade that seemed to be built on pedestals connecting three distinct, red, metallic buildings (each of which housed various parts of science and industry). With my camera battery running low because of the exhaustive use I put it through at the botanical garden, I raced through in order to carry on my aggressive run through the city's parks. Unfortunately, after buzzing through the reptilian room, and the aquarium (my two favorite places), I only had enough time to duck in to one of the three, large exhibit spaces offering visitors a selection of physical science, geology, and the digital world. I went with physical science, naturally... In here, I learned how little I knew about life's sciences, in Spanish, and how useful a role museums play in educating the youth of all countries. I learned a tremendous amount, not specifically about science, as I had already gone through much of the content and have continued my education through the Discovery Channel, but, I learned all of this stuff in Spanish, which was the important part. It was pretty cool to be taught by someone who appeared to be in high school, explaining the function of things like pressure, force, gravity, etc, in Spanish.

So, after bailing out on Parque Explora, I went outside, only to find that it was now drizzling - awesome! I busted out and darted to Parque de Deseos, figuring I could make Parque Norte (an amusement park) the next time I spin through Medellin. When I arrived to Parque de Deseos, it felt a little different that the way my Lonely Planet described it - the modern, concrete park where all the college kids hang out (it's close to the University of Antioquia)... The age of the students was more like junior high school than college, and it wasn't quite as big as I imagined, but it was certainly quite modern, and completely made of concrete, but not in a skate-park kind of way. After walking through, I hopped back on the metro toward the hotel, where I did a quick turnaround and headed for the bus station to catch a ride to paradise...